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Friday 21 November 2014

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Popular Chinese Food Biography

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Chinese food now holds a popular place among the entire population of the world. You can find a Chinese restaurant in every major city and in many smaller areas of the world as well. Why is Chinese food so popular? Is Chinese food healthy? What is the history of Chinese food?

The History of Chinese Food

The history of Chinese food is an interesting one. Unlike many cultures the Chinese believe that the preparation of food is an art and not simply a craft. The art of cooking Chinese food can include dishes and food preparation techniques which are difficult to develop and may require the expertise of a chef with lots of experience. One suchchicken lo mein technique is noodle pulling (scroll down to the bottom of the page to learn more about this technique). Noodle pulling requires skill and lots of practice and results in a delicious noodle dish. This article will refer to noodle pulling later on, but for now, let’s go back to the history of Chinese food.

Chinese food and the way it is prepared is very much influenced by the two major philosophies, which influence the entire Chinese culture. These dominant philosophies are Confucianism and Taoism. Both have these philosophies have influenced the way that the Chinese people cook and the way that they enjoy their food..

Confucianism and Chinese Cuisine

Confucius was the man behind the Confucianism beliefs. Among many other standards Confucius established standards for proper table etiquette and for the appearance and taste of Chinese food. One of the standards set by Confucius (you might have noticed this at an authentic Chinese restaurant) is that food must be cut into small bite size pieces before serving the dish. This is a custom that is definitely unique to the Chinese culture.

Knives at the dinner table are also considered to be a sign of very poor taste by those who embrace Confucianism beliefs. The standards of quality and taste that Confucius recommended required the perfect blend of ingredients, herbs and condiments--a blend which would result in the perfect combination of flavor. Confucius also emphasized the importance of the texture and color of a dish, and taught that food must be prepared and eaten with harmony. Interestingly enough, Confucius was also of the opinion that an excellent cook must first make an excellent matchmaker.

Taoism and Chinese Cuisine

Those who follow the Taoism beliefs focus on the health benefits of particular foods vs. the presentation of the same. Taoists search for foods that will increase their health and longevity. They search for foods that have healing powers. Many times these benefits were often referred to as ‘life giving powers’. For instance, the Chinese found that ginger, which can be considered to be a garnish or a condiment was found to be a remedy for upset stomachs or a remedy for colds.

Is Chinese Food Healthy?

Chinese food, when authentic is probably the healthiest food in the world. Some restaurants, which are not authentic, prepare their menu with highly saturated fats or with meats that contain unhealthy amounts of animal fat. These Chinese restaurants are not recommended and they are both neither authentic nor healthy. bok choy

Good Chinese food however, is prepared and cooked with poly-unsaturated oils. Authentic Chinese food does not require the use of milk-fat ingredients such as cream, butter or cheese. Meat is used, but not in abundance, which makes it easy for those who love authentic Chinese food to avoid high levels of animal fat. Many believe that authentic Chinese food is really the ideal diet.

Chinese Restaurants in Every Part of the Nation

Whether it is in a Tennessee Chinese Restaurant to a New York Chinese restaurant you are going to find culinary dishes that are both healthy and delicious. Savor the flavor with Chinese food!

Food has a special meaning to the Chinese people. The "waste not, want not" ethos means that a surprising range and variety of plants and animals, and every part of a plant or animal is used. This has given rise to a remarkable diversity in regional cuisine, but to Westerners it can be overwhelming - surprising, fantastic, delicious, horrifying or disgusting - but above all, different.

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Chinese Food Map Biography

Source(google.com.pk)
Our lives – and the safety of our food – are determined by the structures we live in, writes Tang Hao. Without systemic reform, there’s no point increasing enforcement powers.

The Chinese people have had their imaginations challenged by a series of food and drug safety scares. In a little over a decade, we have seen alcohol which is actually methanol; seafood soaked in formalin; the Fuyang milk-formula scandal, the Sudan Red scare, the melamine scandal, “gutter oil”, and gelatine rendered out of used shoe leather. Now even the capsules used to deliver drugs have been found to contain toxins.

None of us can be certain that any foodstuff or drug is safe, from baby milk powder through to cooking oil. Nor can we be sure that any company – be it a backstreet workshop or a big state-owned firm – is producing safe food and drugs. Consumers were originally shocked. Now, they are simply numb. It seems the Chinese have got used to poisoning each other.

It is the nature of the problem itself that has allowed it to become so widespread. China’s food and drug safety problems are structural, caused by a number of different factors and actually exacerbated by the system. No single response to any one incident will provide a solution.

First, let’s take the economics of food safety. We must ask the most basic of questions: why do companies manufacture and use toxic foods and drugs? Why do even officially registered companies, even those of considerable size, do so? The answer lies with our overall economic structure.

In China, sectors such as energy, heavy industry, chemicals and communications, often very profitable, have high barriers to entry in order to protect the interests of state monopolies. There is little space left for private firms and small and medium enterprises (SMEs) – and when too many companies chase the limited opportunities remaining, excessive competition results.

Cheap goods and fake food

In the food and drug sectors, the financial and technical barriers to entry are low. This creates a structural problem: companies tend to be small, scattered, of low quality and unable to innovate. And so they compete dishonestly. Excessive competition leads to a race to the bottom, with costs being cut through fakery and inferior products. Any firms that actually care about safety become less competitive and eventually go under.

Not only does the bad money drive out the good, food and drug manufacturers are under a massive tax burden. From ordinary taxation (higher than in other nations), to more China-specific costs including road and bridge tolls, business registration and inspection fees – profits are wrung out at every stage of the food industry. Before a food or drug reaches the consumer, huge additional costs are incurred for raw materials, transportation, production, distribution and retailing, preventing both manufacturers and retailers from growing. With food and drug supply chains becoming more complex and the market more open, those burdens are passed onto the consumer by fair means (increased prices) or foul (cheap but toxic products). Most countries monitor food safety at the farm and the factory. But in China food safety issues can arise anywhere.

Second, there’s government regulation: a developing market economy and continued government involvement in that market mean greater government ability to obtain income. But ability to manage has decreased. There have been obvious legislative successes: the Food Safety Law, the Drug Control Law and the Regulations on Supervision and Management of Medical Equipment have all been promulgated, and a number of national standards are now in line with international practice.

But these ever more detailed laws have failed to improve food and drug safety. The problem is implementation. Several government departments are responsible for food safety, and powers and responsibilities are fragmented. The Ministry of Health is in charge of overall coordination and risk evaluation; the Ministry of Agriculture covers agricultural products; the General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine monitors imports, manufacturing and processing; the Drug Supervision Administration is in charge of medicines; while food products on the market are mostly the responsibility of the industrial and commercial authorities.

This leads to two problems. One, overlapping supervision increases costs for the companies. And two, when problems arise, the authorities pass the buck. Fees are taken – but not responsibility. Both of these problems make it harder to guarantee food safety. On a trip to America, former premier Zhu Rongji paid a visit to the US Food and Drug Administration, a powerful government agency that has been in existence for a century. On his return to China, Zhu set up a similar body in China, but for various reasons it failed to play its hoped-for role and was broken up.

Major design flaws at the top worsen problems with implementation at the grassroots. Laws and national standards are not, generally, strictly enforced. Local officials lack motivation to enforce these rules and often act on behalf of dishonest companies as much as on behalf of the state. National law becomes the basis on which those officials draw benefit from business – in exchange, laws are laxly enforced, or simply ignored. This extra cost for the companies may then be passed on to the consumer in the form of lower-quality products.

Better food regulation needed

Local officials become part of the low-quality food chain and share in the profits. Naturally, they have no interest in eliminating the problem. This is not just apparent in the food and drug sectors. The recent cases of pyramid scheme fraud in Beihai and Nanning, the sex industry in the Pearl River Delta – these sorts of problems are also tied up with the interests of local officials. Government aims and objectives are not implemented and so governance fails. Worse, with this culture already entrenched, strengthening enforcement in any one area actually gives officials more power to extract benefit – creating the opposite effect to that intended. The more invested in enforcement, the more power the officials have, and the less effective governance becomes.

Finally, there’s consumer and public oversight. China’s particular policy and legal environment cannot meet the political needs of a modern society and citizenry. Media supervision and public participation are limited, non-governmental supervisory groups cannot act, self-regulation by industry groups is underdeveloped and public law suits against food and drug firms fail to get through the courts. The food and drug industries lack the pressure of social oversight, and so the final and most direct line of defence is lost – and safety problems just get worse.

Our lives are determined by the systems we live in. In China food and drug safety isn’t just a question of economics. It is also a matter of regulation, and more, a matter of our political and legal system. Management of these structural issues without overall reform, with just the blind expansion of enforcement powers, will be useless.

Changing this system through economic, administrative, social and legal channels needs the continued participation of the victims – the citizen as consumer. And this participation must extend beyond supervision and enforcement in the food and drug sectors into all other areas: demanding economic justice, breaking up monopolies and widening market access; shutting down production, pursuing criminal liability, and demanding huge punitive damages; seeking judicial independence, improving law and regulations, expanding legislation, and promoting the rule of law; launching citizen movements, establishing NGOs, and promoting political reform.

Only widespread participation and overall reform can provide hope for a complete resolution. This will be no easy path to take, but when it comes to structural problems there are no short cuts.

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Chinese Food Online

Source(google.com.pk)
Sauces - Bean Sauce, Soy Sauce, Sweet Bean Sauce, Hoisin Sauce, Hot Bean Sauce, Szechuan Sauce, Sweet Sauce, Chili sauce, Hot Garlic Sauce, Oyster Sauce, Szechuan Chilies, Sesame Oil, Garlic, Ginger, Straw Mushroom, Chinese Cooking Wine, Dried Sichuan Chilies, Five Spice Powder, Hot Pepper Oil, Rice Vinegar, Star Anise, Natural Cane Sugar, Peanut oil and Pantry Staples, Rice, Beans, Spices

Chinese Regional Cuisine Cooking, Methods, Techniques

Chinese cuisine can be divided into five culinary regions:

Northern China - Beijing/Mandarin and Shantung known especially for its steamed bread and noodle dishes.
South Eastern China - Cantonese and Chaozhou known for its lightly cooked meats and vegetables.
Western China - Sichuan or ChungKing known for its spicy dishes
Eastern China - Shanghainese known for its slow `red cooking.' Fukien known for its seafood and clear light soups.
Central China – Honan known for its carp from the yellow river
Tea has been the traditional beverage of choice all over China. Today Coca-Cola and beer are making inroads into China and are popular throughout China.

Beijing/Mandarin/ Pekinese/Shantung Cuisine –
Peking has always been a great intellectual and cultural center. This is also the site of the Imperial Palace and has exerted great cultural influence over time. Its influence extended all over the northern plains, including Beijing; the fertile east, watered by the Yangtse river. Peking was the gourmet capital of China until the 17th century. Peking had a reputation of holding mammoth feasts and banquets attracting the country's best chefs. Many of today’s Chinese restaurants draw inspiration from the imperial style which has red brocade, tasseled lanterns and lacquer furnishings.

A multi-course meal of Peking Duck is probably the best-known dish in this culinary school. Imperial theatricality is also evident in the noodle-making exhibitions provided by culinary jugglers at some international Chinese restaurants. The elaborate ceremony of smashing open clay-baked Beggar's Chicken is another specialty dish.

The three-day Imperial Banquets, with their 365 dishes, are still talked about with awe and respect. This school has dishes like sizzling Hilsa herrings, "toffee" apples and bananas, silk thread noodles, steamed breads, pancakes, onion cakes, dim sum pastries, delicious roasts and wine cooked meats in its repertoire. This school has a liberal use of garlic, scallions, leeks and chives.

The northern region of China reaches into the hostile climate of Mongolia -- land of the Gobi Desert and Arctic winter winds. Mongolian influence on this school has been the use of mutton and lamb. The cold region of the North is not suitable for rice cultivation so, wheat, barley, millet and soybeans are the staples; breads and noodles anchor the meal. Vegetables and fruits -- cabbage, squash, pears, grapes, and apples -- are the most popular.

Typical Beijing dishes:

Beijing Roast Duck Beijing kaoya
Instant-Boiled Mutton Mongolian Hot Pot shuan yangrou
Braised Shark's Fin huangmen yuchi
Sauteed Chicken With Green Peppers jiangbao jiding
Sweet Cake With Dates saqima
Cantonese Cuisine
Canton is China’s gateway to the West. There are cosmopolitan influences here and of all of China's regional cuisines, that of Canton (Quangtung) province is the most popular all over the world. The Chinese from this province, emigrated to Europe and America and took their cuisine with them. After the Ming Dynasty was overthrown many of its officers moved to this area and brought with them their chefs that were trained in the classical Peking style.These chefs took advantage of the abundance and variety of indiginious ingredients of this region. Long, warm, wet days throughout the year create the perfect environment for cultivating most everything. The coast provides ample seafood, the groves are filled with fruits. The chefs adapted the Peking style to reflect more variety and freshness. The cuisine reached such heights that along with the French, the Cantonese believe that they "live to eat".

The Cantonese style emphasizes the individual taste of each ingredient while blending taste and textures of many ingredients and the subtle use of condiments to give the palette the whole experience. Freshness is the keyword in Cantonese cuisine. Twice-daily trips to the market are common in this culinary school. There are few seasonings (soy sauce, ginger root and wine) and favors the quick stir-frying and steaming methods. Roast meat, poultry (especially as stock), lobster and steamed fish are the norm along with many varieties of vegetables.

Typical courses:

Trumpet Shell Braised In Soy Sauce hongshao hailuo
Sweet And Sour Carp tangcu liyu
Dezhou Stewed Chicken dezhou paji
Caramelized Apples basi pingguo
Szechuan Cuisine
This Western area of China has its own unique cuisine and was never really part of mainstream China. Its mountainous provinces of Szechwan and Hunan have a steamy, hot, almost tropical climate and cuisine. Its locally grown chilies makes this cuisine spicy and also helps preserve food in this hot climates.

The Szechuan cuisine uses local rice, citrus fruits, bamboo, chilies and mushrooms. Ginger, garlic, onions and brown peppercorns are other popular seasonings.This style is unique as it does not use many table condiments as the dishes themselves are seasoned, spiced and oily.

Szechuan specialties include smoked duck, a blend of cooking techniques and taste contrasts. It is seasoned with orange peel, cinnamon, coriander and other ingredients, then marinated in rice wine, then steamed, then smoked over a charcoal fire sprinkled with camphor wood chips and red-tea leaves - the result is a gourmet taste delight. Other specialties include deep fried chicken wrapped in paper, vegetables prepared in chicken fat, chicken and hot peppers and a variety of mushroom dishes. The famous hot and sour soup, sliced Hoisin pork and bean curd spicy dishes on the menu in many restaurants are from this region.

Typical courses:

Sliced Cold Chicken xiao jianji
Twice Cooked Pork hui guo rou
Shredded Pork and Hot Sauce yuxiang rousi
Spicy Hot Bean Curd mapo doufu
Hot Pot huoguo
Fish Flavored Eggplant yuxiang qiezi
Reflecting Beef dengying niurou
Couple's Beef Fillet fuqi feipian
Shanghainese Cuisine
Shanghai has been China’s most important port city. This has allowed it to incorporate many regional and international ideas into its cuisine. In Shanghai , there is more dependence on soy sauce and a great deal more of sugar is used. Stewing, braising and frying are the most common forms of Shanghainese cooking. The slow "red cooking" technique is unique to Shanghai cuisine and has now spread to other parts of China. Rice is the staple here and seafood is very popular in this port city.

The dishes from the Fukien province are famous for their seafood and for clear light soups which are served in large quantities. It is not uncommon to have more than one soup dish in a meal. In fact, at large banquets most of the dishes or courses could be soups. Fukien uses cooking wine and soy sauce in its dishes. Their light meals are balanced with red fermented bean sauce. It is also known for its egg rolls, paper thin pancakes, seaweeds, and suckling pig. Rice noodles and rice is the staple here. They are also very fond of green teas.

Typical Shanghai dishes:

Sour and Hot Soup with Eel and Chicken longfeng suanla tang
Black Sea Cucumber with Shrimp Roe xiazi dawushen
Duck with Prawn Rounds ruyi ya juan xian
Shrimps of Two Colors shuangse xiaren
Boiled Crucian Carp with Clam geli cuan jiyu
Steamed Beef in Rice Flour yuanlong fenzheng niurou
Honan
The Honan province is famous for its sweet and sour dishes. Its yellow carp caught in the Yellow river is sought by people all over China.

Typical courses:

Dong'an Chick dong'an ziji
Peppery and Hot Chick mala ziji
Lotus Seedpods With Crystal Sugar bingtang xianglian
Other Chinese Culinary Schools

Chinese Cuisine is essentially five cuisines. The vastness of China and its regional history, ethnic people and climate have created distinct cuisines

Besides these regional cuisines the minorities in China with their unique customs and habits have their own cuisines. The Uygur, Kazak and Ozbek ethnic people like roast mutton kebab and crusty pancake; Mongolians like millet stir-fried in butter, fried sheep tail and tea with milk; Koreans like sticky rice cakes, cold noodles and kimchi (pickled vegetables); Tibetans eat zanba (roasted barley flour) and buttered tea; the Lis, Jings and Dais chew betel nut palms.

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Thursday 20 November 2014

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Real Chinese Food Biography

Source(google.com.pk)

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Order Chinese Food Biography

Source(google.com.pk)
During a long period of production and living practice, China has made great contribution to the world on the aspects of food resource exploration, diet treatment, nutrition and health care, dishware design and cuisine aesthetics. Intellectuals in China have created countless dishes with apt names, aromas, flavors and colors, greatly enhancing the dining experience. During these four or five thousand years of development, Chinese cuisine appears various features in different periods and regions. Generally speaking, people in this country mainly live on the five common cereals and vegetables and added by a small supply of meat. This eating habit is formed by the mode of production which is centered by agriculture. Moreover, Chinese food makes cooked and hot food primary, which is related to the advance of culinary skills and early civilization of the country.

With a profound history of over 4,000 years, Chinese tea is regarded as an exquisite art form that requires sampling. Now it has become the national drink and one of the three soft drinks in the world (the other two are coffee and cocoa). It is from China that the tea planting techniques, processing, drinking methods and ceremony were directly or indirectly introduced to the world. So China is regarded proudly as the hometown of tea. The land can be divided into four growing regions: South China, Southwestern China, and Yangtze River's north and south banks. These vast planting areas widely grow various kinds of tea trees. Each kind requires unique tea sets to infuse the best flavor. The sets mainly include tea cup, pot and saucer. Their materials differ in porcelain, pottery, lacquer ware, glass, bamboo and wooden fish stone. What's more, tea ceremony is considered to be a good way to cultivate the minds. Through infusing, appreciating and tasting tea, people can nourish their inborn nature and promote friendship among each other.

Alcohol may be featured at sumptuous banquets to ease the expression of diners' thoughts and feelings. But in the long process of Chinese history, it is not only an objective existence but also a cultural symbol. China is one of the earliest countries in the world to make alcohol and the history can be traced back to prehistoric times. Since its appearance, it is not just a kind of drink, but is also endowed with spiritual and cultural value which reflects in social political life, literature, aesthetic idea and manner of life. From this point of view, to drink alcohol is actually to taste a culture. According to the historical records, as early as in the Shang Dynasty (16th - 11th century BC), Chinese people began to drink alcohol and use it to worship Gods. All kinds of alcohol except yellow rice wine developed greatly after the Han (206BC-220) and Tang (618-907) dynasties. Chinese alcohols have a wide variety of kinds. By the type of products, they can be divided into yellow rice wine, white wine, medicinal liquor, fruit liquor and beer. By the alcoholic content, they can be grouped into strong alcohol liquor, medium alcohol liquor and low alcohol liquor. In recent years, Chinese wine-making industry is prospering every day. Through thousand years of development, alcohol, as a basic necessity in people's life, has already melted into the resplendent Chinese civilization.

When you think of Chinese food you think of rice, and rice was the first grain that people farmed in China. There is archaeological evidence of rice farming along the Yang-tse River as early as about 5000 BC. People cooked rice by boiling it in water, the way they do today. Or they made it into wine. Rice wine has been popular in China since prehistory.

But rice doesn't grow in northern China, which is much drier and colder. People in northern China gathered wild millet and sorghum instead. By 4500 BC, people in northern China were farming millet. They ate it boiled into a kind of porridge.

Another food people associate with China is tea. Tea grows wild in China. By about 3000 BC (or it could be much earlier), people in China had begun to drink tea. Soon everybody drank tea.

Wheat was not native to China, so it took much longer to reach China. People in northern China first began to eat wheat in the Shang Dynasty, about 1500 BC. People brought wheat to China from West Asia. People in China boiled wheat like millet, to make something like Cream of Wheat.

These were the main carbohydrates of China - rice, millet, sorghum, and wheat. In northern China, people mostly ate millet, wheat, and sorghum. In southern China, people mostly ate rice. For fat, they crushed soybeans for soybean oil. Poor people ate almost nothing but these foods - they hardly ever had meat or fruit.

When people could afford it, they bought or grew vegetables to put on their rice. Cucumbers and bok choy, for instance, are native to China. For fruits, the Chinese had oranges and lemons, peaches and apricots. Ginger and anise are also from China (Americans use anise to make licorice).

On special occasions, people also put little pieces of meat on their rice. By 5500 BC, the Chinese were eating domesticated chicken, which came originally from Thailand. By 4000 or 3000 BC, they were eating pork, which was native to China. Sheep and cattle, which were not native, reached China from West Asia also around 4000 BC.

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Tuesday 18 November 2014

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Chinese Fast Food Biography

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The world’s second-largest burger chain is gearing up in China
Oct 23rd 2008 | BEIJING | From the print edition
Timekeeper
CHINA may boast a 5,000-year-old culinary tradition, but when it comes to fast food, Western-style outlets rule. For this you can thank—or blame—changing consumer tastes, and the breathless expansion plans of chain restaurants, which are eager to grab a bigger slice of the country's estimated annual 200 billion yuan ($29 billion) fast-food market.

For two decades the battle for the modern Chinese stomach was fought between two American giants: McDonald's, the world's largest fast-food chain; and Yum! Brands, which operates the KFC and Pizza Hut brands in China. Yum!, which first arrived in China in 1987 (three years before McDonald's), has always stayed ahead of its rival—going by both the number of restaurants and consumers' awareness of the brand. In 2005 the two titans were joined by another American stalwart, Burger King, the world's second-largest burger chain.

In April Burger King had just 12 outlets on the mainland, including nine in Shanghai. But after this cautious start, the company is pushing ahead with a faster store roll-out: in June it announced plans to open between 250 and 300 outlets in China over the next five years, including another ten restaurants in Shanghai. As in other markets, 90% of them will be franchised and a tenth owned by Burger King. For comparison, KFC has more than 2,200 outlets in some 450 cities and McDonald's has 950 outlets.

Airport eateries will also be vital. Some 200 of Burger King's 11,500 outlets worldwide are at airports. Catering there has a number of advantages, including steady, captive customers and limited competition. In February Burger King opened its first outlet at Beijing Capital Airport's Terminal 3, and the following month it opened two restaurants at Shanghai Pudong International Airport's Terminal 2. Another ten mainland airports are also on its menu.

One problem for Burger King is that its trademark “Whopper” is made out of beef. Like McDonald's, the chain must cope with the fact that Chinese consumers prefer chicken. McDonald's has launched lots of marketing campaigns to try and convince mainland customers about the health benefits of eating beef (apparently, there are some). This has done much to overcome the traditional indifference of Chinese towards beef, probably saving time and money for Burger King's own marketing campaigns.

Burgers with Chinese characteristics

Burger King is also adapting its menu for China. It has added chicken dishes and has also added chili to some of its offerings. It has not localised its China menu as much as its rivals have, however. KFC has gone the furthest in tailoring its menu for Chinese tastes, with offerings ranging from pumpkin porridge and Beijing chicken rolls to the Chinese deep-fried twisted dough sticks (youtiao) on its breakfast menu. McDonald's (and to a lesser extent, KFC) is also ahead of Burger King in making “off-the-menu” innovations. These include “dessert” kiosks selling just sweet pastries and drinks. McDonald's also runs a 24-hour service at 600 outlets.

With its two American rivals so far ahead, is Burger King likely to be successful in China? There should be demand enough for more than two big American fast-food firms here, analysts reckon, and the company has the resources to finance rapid and sustained expansion into mainland cities. Most important, it is strongly motivated. Burger King is keen to build its business outside America. Four-fifths of the new restaurants to open this year will be outside its home turf, and the company aims to double its Asia-Pacific presence to some 1,400 outlets over the next five years.

In China, Burger King's strategy is particularly to chase younger, more individualistic diners in the country's big cities. Its idea is that these restaurant-goers will want to set themselves apart from older family members or colleagues by trying the newcomer. If so, the Whopper—sold in China as huangbao, or “Emperor Burger”—may yet dethrone the Big Mac here.